Tag Archives: nature

I shore ain’t in Kansas no mo.

At 11,312 feet above sea level Monarch Mountain Pass on Route 50 is one of the most dangerous roads in America.

I did not know this when I drove it, but I did know that it was an awfully curvy, awfully high, and awfully spectacularly beautiful road to drive.

As I summited the Pass, I began to suspect something might be important about this stretch of Route 50 when I saw people taking pictures of one another in front of the Monarch Mountain Pass sign at the summit.

That suspicion grew towards certainty when, about a mile down from the summit, I passed an upside down tractor trailer that had flipped over taking the left hand curve too fast and had slid a short way down the embankment.

The certainty became conviction when I googled it and watched a YouTube video about Monarch Pass, but by then I was safely down and off the mountain and in a motel for the night because it was forecast to be too cold to camp.

I spent two nights in Colorado.

The first was in La Junta at the very first KOA campground I’ve ever been in and, like the first of anything, will probably be the most memorable. As I was checking in, I was noticing a lot of tarantula-themed merchandise for sale. There was even a large rock paperweight with a painting of a tarantula on it on the counter and when I asked the girl about it, she told me that every September there is a tarantula festival in La Junta because the tarantulas totter into town to mate.

My second night was in Montrose at the Minecart Motor Lodge. I had called earlier in the day when I’d stopped for gas because Mr. ChatGPT told me it got great reviews and the price wasn’t too bad. So I booked it. But as I drove into Montrose I passed a couple of motels that looked really nice and I hoped that Minecart Motor Lodge would look as nice.

It didn’t. In fact, as I drove by it, it looked like the kinda place that might rent rooms by the hour. I even tried to weasel out of the reservation so that I could stay in one of the other, nicer-looking motels.

But I couldn’t and I didn’t and it turns out I was wrong. Come to find out, the Minecart Motor Lodge has new owners and they are renovating the motel from the rooms out. The rooms are really nice. Simple, but really nice. And they don’t rent by the hour.

So Colorado gave me a spectacularly dangerous road to drive, my first KOA experience, and a reminder NOT to judge a book (or a place) by it’s cover.

Thanks, Colorado.

Rosebud.

When I left Lakeside RV campground the next morning the skies were cloudy and the wind was picking up. I stopped for gas and coffee on SR 130 before picking up 50 West. As soon as I turned onto 50 the clouds had thickened and darkened and bolts of lightning were beginning to flash all over on the horizon.

The wind strengthened, the lightning got crazier and off to my right I could see an especially dark cloud that seemed to be trying to dip and become a funnel(?). I sped up, which is actually kind of useless and funny give the immensity of a storm over something as flat as Illinois, but I kept checking the progress of the storm and my own comparatively minuscule progress west on 50.

Ultimately, however, nothing happened except that Turtle and me got pelted with a helluva thunderstorm. After the storm and I passed one another, I saw a Walmart (which are like rashes) and I stopped to pick up a couple of things.

And then it was back onto 50 and out of Illinois and into Missouri- which would prove to be the best and the worst of my trip so far.

(Quick note: on the map it looks like Route 50 takes you through St. Louis and I was kinda looking forward to it since I’ve never been there but instead of taking me through the city (like it does in Cincinnati and Washington) 50 joins up with the beltway around the city so I never saw much of St. Louis)

Anyway. Back to the best and the worst.

THE BEST- Hands down it is Rosebud. It’s a quaint, cute little town between slow down and resume speed where it seems as if the people there are born there, raised there, go to school there, get married to their high school sweethearts there, have kids there, and die there.

I stopped at The Rosebud General Store because they were selling gas for $4.09/gal! As I was filling my tank with relatively inexpensive fuel I saw, on the gas pump, a hand lettered little sign saying free water with a gas purchase. So after I filled up I went inside to see if it was true and the cute little girl at the register said- absolutely and gestured to her right where back near a cooler another cute little girl was holding out an ice cold bottled water.

Cheap gas and a cute little girl handing me an ice cold bottle of water. Ah, Rosebud, you stole my heart.

THE WORST- Sedalia. I would be stopping for the night in Sedalia. I had chosen Sedalia because there was a State Park campground at the Missouri State fairgrounds. The Missouri State fair wasn’t until August so I figured it would be nice and quiet. And it was. Too much so. Once I finally found it.

When you come into Sedalia, it’s pretty much like a lot of little towns so I was looking forward to camping for the night. But then you get into the five mile stretch of Route 50 closest to the fairgrounds and it is five miles of the worst that America has to offer. It is chain store, food chain, retail run amuck and awry. It is all paved and curbed and billboarded and the few little hopeful islands of grass that somehow remain just look sad.

And then I missed my turn. The only sign I saw was for State Fairgrounds Community College so I’m thinking I don’t want to go there and it took me six miles out of town to decide that it probably was what I wanted and turn around.

I had been expecting a State campground near the fairgrounds. Instead, it’s a campground ON the fairgrounds. I drove into a gate directing me to the campground and it was like driving into an enormous drive-in movie theater. Just row after row after row of hookups in this big field. No camp store. No facilities. No ice. No nothing. Just a big field with maybe a half dozen RV’s sitting parked in the hot, humid sun.

I pulled into a site and sat and thought for a minute and said- fuck this. I pulled up my search for campgrounds in the area and found Countryside RV close by and figured it’s got to be better than this. And it was. Just barely.

Located behind an industrial fencing company and some kind of welding shop, Countryside has about thirty sites most of have permanent campers on them. It also has the most disgusting bathroom and showers I’ve ever seen. But I paid my $40 fee for the night, went back out to get ice at a gas station with bars over the tiny windows and door and settled in with the flies for the night.

I was never so happy to leave.

Crossroads no more.

When I crossed into Indiana I noticed that the state’s welcome had changed. No longer was Indiana the Crossroads of America, it is now the More to Discover state which has apparently drawn the the ire of a number of it’s citizens. They don’t like it. And I don’t blame them, but, then again, I don’t live there.

Nor was I even in Indiana long enought to discover much of anything. It only takes about three hours to cross the state from east to west so about the only thing I discovered in Indiana was that the state is home to a shit ton of yard sales- at least along Route 50.

It seemed like every five or ten miles I was passing another yard sale. And these aren’t just little card table affairs with Sis and Mom or Junior and Dad trying to sell the stuff they no longer want but can’t bring themselves to throw away figuring that “well hell, for a dollar, someone’s gonna want this”.

Nor are these the quiet little yard sales you see in a neighbors driveway on a quiet weekend morning.

These are sprawling affairs of compulsive buying running right up to within twenty feet of Route 50 showcasing (and selling) everything imagineable. Trinkets, jewelry, arts and crafts, books, clothes, shoes, pots and pans and dishes, lawn mowers and weed wackers, sometimes a car or a motorcycle. I even saw a boat and an RV at one yard sale as I passed by.

A few even looked interesting enough to entice me to stop and shop. But I needed to get to Illinois and my campground for the night so I tucked my compulsive buyer and buyers remorse away and drove on.

One of the first things you notice when you cross the border into Illinois is that also cross from the Eastern to the Central Time Zone and all your electronics turn back the pages of time one hour so you get to re-live that hour again. Which begs the question- if you could travel west fast enough to keep re-doing that same hour, would you live forever?

I pondered this for the hour or so until I arrived at Lakeside RV in Olney, Illinois and met the owner Jerry. As Jerry said- Lakeside RV is, or has become, more of a fish camp than an RV campground. And it shows. Most of the RV’s there aren’t going anywhere anytime soon, if ever. The owners have built decks onto them, roofs and additons. It’s more of a place that the owners come to on weekends to fish and drink and tell stories about the one that got away.

But Jerry still keeps a couple of transient spots, so I was home for the night.

Verticality.

Next up was Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.

Where homes cling to the mountainside with driveways that fall away or climb from the road like amusement park rides and Route 50 (or maybe ALL roads in West Virginia) have more curves than a 36DD stripper.

Driving in West Virginia is spectacular and spectacularly exciting and exhausting. The views are magnificent but the roads are relentlessly curving left and right as they corkscrew up and down the seemingly endless West Virginia mountains. As soon as you get to the bottom (or top) of one elevation and catch your breath for the maybe short half mile stretch of straight road (West Virginia DOT hates straight- I’m convinced of this) you start up or down ANOTHER 9% grade.

But the views. Simply amazing.

So as I wrestled Turtle (I think I’ve decided to call my truck/camper Turtle)(because that’s what it looks like) up and down and back and forth, braking hard and accelerating harder, I marveled at the scenery.

I’m a flatlander. We don’t even have any little bitty hills in Virginia Beach or Knott’s Island, so to be winding up (or down) a mountain road with a cliff high above on one side and a cliff plunging away on the other was like driving in a 4th dimension.

Anyway.

I got to Davis and my brother-in-law showed me around and we spent some time together before he had to leave and then I had too much to drink while watching the very worst movie I have ever seen in my entire life. (Anybody But Him)

The next morning when I was brushing my teeth, I realized that my Gezellig, my cozy comfort level was gone, the places I knew and were familiar with were behind me now and that I had asked for this and I’d got it.

And I wavered.

But then, as I stared at my hungover self in the mirror, with toothpaste smeared in my beard and mustache, I said to myself- stop being such a pussy.

And got dressed and loaded up and went out to wrestle the mountains roads some more.